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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.